How To: Tie a rope halter

This is a bit of an odd one, but after spending a long night figuring this out, I figured I'd share my new found knowledge.  Mostly in the form of links to things I found that actually helped.

How to tie your very own rope halter!

What you'll need:

About 25 feet of polyester or nylon diamond braid rope, 1/4", preferably in pretty colors.  You can get this at any hardware store or on Amazon for cheap.
Scissors
A ruler
A lighter
Beer, wine, or other booze of your choice.

Step one:

Pour your drink and clear out a space on the floor or at a table.  Flat space is critical for tricky knots.

Step two:

Pick the size of the halter you want so you know the dimensions.  Or measure a halter that's already fit to your horse.  Most of the online directions assume you're working with a 15.2 QH, so you might need to make some modifications.

Step three:

Start using these directions.  If you want a four knot halter, which has two extra knots on the nose to get your precious pony's attention, just add in two more double overhand knots between the knots in the first part of the instructions.  Just make sure the total noseband length is correct for your size when you're done.

When you get to the fiador knot part, the knot that goes under your horse's chin, pour another drink and watch this video.

Don't try to do it off of the photos in the directions.  You will hate your life.  I pulled it off by having that video running and hitting pause frequently to make sure my knot looked like his.  Got it on the first try when I followed every move he made.  Failed three times trying to use pictures.

Then go back to the directions in the link and finish up your halter, using the dimensions you picked for your horse.

Step four:

Realize there's a reason people pay for these things and go shopping on Amazon.

Though in all honesty, I successfully completed my halter in two hours and that includes the time I spent completely taking it apart and starting over due to making it the wrong size.  And deciding I wanted four knots instead of two on the noseband.  After all of my restarts, I ended up tying that fiador knot about three times and it does get easier with repetition.

Behold, my rope halter!

And my kitchen tiles that are scheduled to be replaced, hello, 70's!

For those that are all about the matchy match part of riding, it is possible to create a matching lead rope.  I created this using a four strand round braid (hit Google, it's a common braid).  I started with two 24 foot strands of rope (doubled over to make four strands) and ended with about an 8 foot lead.

Check out the open stairs, I have the most 70's house ever

Don't do it.  Don't do it!  My hands were cramping so badly by the end and trying to manage twelve feet of rope while doing a square braid?  UGH.  It looks pretty, but I can't imagine trying to create the 14 foot training ropes I see attached to rope halters.  Do yourself a favor and buy a plain back rope.  This one is the length I needed to attach for use as a side pull or for non-lunging ground work.  Good enough for me!  Because ugh.  Still thinking about undoing it and just braiding it since it came out a bit thick.  Might need something stronger than beer to tackle that project again.

Mostly this was an arts and crafts project to keep me occupied and out of trouble on a boring winter night.  The rope was the kind the hubby uses to tie down stuff on his trailer, so he had fifty feet just sitting around unused.  You can buy fifty feet in a pretty color for $15, so it's technically cheaper than buying a pre-made halter.  But it's such a small savings, you'll probably want to just go out and buy one.

Though I do love the black and pink on Theo.

How To: Wrap a Hoof

Thanks, Theo, for giving me a chance to write up another how to entry.

This is a write up of how I wrap a hoof.  I did this for a pulled shoe when I knew the farrier wasn't going to be out for at least a day, but it's the same wrap I would do for a bruise or an abscess that hasn't started to drain yet.  I'm a bit over protective of mi papi's feet, for any other horse I'd skip the epsom salt, but with him better safe than sorry. 

As always, your mileage will vary and everyone has their own way to do this.  This is how I do it.

What you need:

Packing:  This can be betadine mixed with epsom salt, betadine mixed with sugar, ichthamol, or this fun premade epsom salt poultice.  Ask your vet for your individual situation.

I love this stuff, so easy to use and it smells great.  There aren't a lot of foot products that smell great and actually work.  It's expensive if you're going to be doing a lot of wrapping, but it's fantastic for a couple days.  Much easier to work with than sugar-dine or salt-dine packing.

Cotton:  You have a couple choices.  I use diapers most of the time, but sheet cotton also works great.  Diapers are easier, sheet cotton can be cut to size and wraps with sheet cotton tend to stay on better.  Sheet cotton is also more expensive.  I'm using sheet cotton in this example because it's what I had on hand, but diapers are done the exact same way.

Vet wrap:  This keeps the cotton in place and gives you something for your duct tape to stick to.  Colors are optional, I say the brighter the better.

Duct tape:  Rolls and rolls of duct tape.  So much duct tape.

Scissors:  Bandage scissors are great for use near so many important structures, you don't want to use sharp point scissors near this part of a horse.

Latex glove:  It's not required, but I much prefer doing packing with a glove so I don't reek afterward.  Highly, highly recommended if your vet wants you to use icthamol.

Hoof pick:  For the obvious use of cleaning out the hoof.

A clean, dry hoof:  Dry is super important, duct tape doesn't stick to anything damp.  I got all of the mud off of him, used a towel to try the hoof off, then let it air dry while I groomed him.  The wrap won't stay if you start with a wet hoof.

How to wrap a hoof:

1.  Make a duct tape pad to wrap the foot.  I used my locker door to hang the piece, but there are lots of spots  you can use.  Start with vertical strips, being sure to overlap them enough to keep them water tight, then go back through with horizontal strips.  This is the part that will be resting on the ground, so it needs reinforcement.  Once you've created a sheet large enough to cover the bottom of the hoof and come up the sides about halfway, set it sticky side up in your work area.

2.  Gather up all of your supplies.  Once you start, you won't be able to put the foot down easily.  It's crucial to have all of your supplies at hand.

3.   Pick the hoof and get it as clean as possible.  Use the brush and remove everything you can.

4.  Add the packing.  If you're using the poultice or icthamol, it's nice and sticky.  It will stay put (even if you forget the sheet cotton and have to put the hoof down, *coughcough*).  With the saltdine or sugardine packing, keep the foot horizontal and pack it in there while being careful to not let it fall out.  If you know where the bruise/abscess is, be sure to focus in that area.  If it's preventative or general care, I pack it in around the hoof generously then ease it out to the toe.  When the horse stands on it, they'll smoosh everything into place.

5.  Cover with cotton.   If you're using a diaper, put the crotch of the diaper over the sole of the horse's hoof and do up the tabs on the top of the hoof.  If you're using sheet cotton, just slap a piece over top of the packing.

6.  Vet wrap the hoof.  This step gives you the security to put the foot down, keeps the packing tightly in place and keeps the duct tape from going directly on the hoof (because it's impossible to get off enough dust to really stick to the hoof).  Figure eights are popular, but I'm not that coordinated.  So long as the whole hoof is covered in vet wrap, I'm happy.  Don't let the vet wrap cross over the coronet band and up to the hair, you can cut off blood flow.

Once I'm done wrapping, I'll run my finger around the entire coronet band and push down any vet wrap that's too close.

7.  Stick the duct tape pad you made to the bottom of the hoof.  Push hard against the vet wrap and push it up around the hoof.  At this point I usually have my horse put his foot down to use his weight to press everything into place.

8.  More duct tape.  Wrap the hoof in duct tape, locking the duct tape pad in place.  Pay particular attention to any wrinkles where moisture can come in.  Moisture is the enemy of a hoof wrap.  Pay particular attention that you don't cross the line to skin.  You don't want to cut off blood flow.

Once all of the duct tape was in place, I slapped on a pair of bell boots for extra protection.  After two pulled shoes in front, bell boots may be a permanent part of his wardrobe.

Tricks to remember:

• Dry, dry, dry!  Duct tape won't stick or last if there's any dampness
• Stick duct tape to duct tape when possible.  It's the best surface and will last the longest.
• Candy canes make a great reward for a horse that's stood patiently for all of this.
• The easiest way to get one of these wraps off is to take a pair of bandage shears and cut down from the top.  The wrap will just slide off afterward.

Happy wrapping!

How to: Body Clip

Since Theo needed a second round of clipping, I thought this would be the perfect time to try my hand at this how to idea.

Body Clipping!

Body clipping is when you clip the hair off of a horse in order to keep them from overheating while worked.  This is usually for horses that are working in the winter, but some horses with conditions that prohibit shedding are clipped year round.  There are a bunch of different types of clips, all of which are on Google.  The ones I do the most are the hunter clip, the blanket clip, and the trace clip.

Due to Theo's lifestyle (out 24/7) and a sensitivity to cold, Trainer A and I decided on a high trace clip as the one most appropriate for him.  I was leaning toward blanket clip due to his sweaty nature and ridiculous amounts of hair, but he does live out in New Hampshire.  He needs some hair.

Freshly clipped, showing his nice trace clip, and then his shaggy self just a month later

The trace clip leaves hair over the major muscle groups while clipping the bottom half of the neck and the stomach, giving the horse a way to vent the heat that comes with riding.  Good rule of thumb, I never, ever clip the area under the saddle, even with a full body clip.  The area right under the saddle panels is always left hairy to avoid in grown hairs, irritation, and your horse possibly deciding this isn't okay and unloading you. 

What  you need:

Body clippers - Seriously, get a pair of body clippers if you're going to be clipping a horse for winter each year.  Just one or two clipping sessions and you'll agree.  The little ones take forever and doing body clipping tears them up quickly.  Check in consignment shops and buy them used if you can find them, they last forever with a bit of care.  Don't be afraid to get the older, less fancy models.  They still clip like a hot knife through butter if the blades are sharp.

My ancient but amazing body clippers that weigh a freaking ton

Clippers - The smaller, A5 sized ones are fantastic for doing the fiddly bits like between the front legs and the girth area.  Not required, I've clipped a horse completely with body clippers, but it's a lot harder and not all horses will let you use body clippers near their face.

Sharp blades - Dull blades result in a rough job no matter how good you are and take longer.  It's not all that comfy for the horse either.  I sharpen my blades after two body clips, three at most.  I got three clips out of my current blades but I definitely felt a difference at the end of this one.  The clip had more uneven spots.

Extension cord - Very important for your sanity and helping you work at the best angle.

Step stool - Only necessary if you have a tall horse and/or you're planning on clipping the ears and face.

Coolant/Lubricant - Body clippers in particular can get hot and all clippers need oil or lubricant to keep chewing through all of that hair.  Do your horse a favor and make sure to have this on hand.  I use the Cool Lube brand in a spray can, works great.  Does a good job on preventing rust on the blades as well.  Blade wash is also a good idea to get all of the gunk out of your blades.

Chain shank - Some horses lose their marbles around clippers.  Even horses that don't mind them I typically clip off of cross ties in case they spook or I pinch them.

Cookies - It's a boring, drawn out process.  Bring rewards.

Chalk - Crooked lines are terrible and it's not like you can glue the hair back on.  Grab some chalk or, in a pinch, thin strips of duct tape can work to mark out the lines for your clip.

Armor - For yourself.  Don't clip in a fleece sweatshirt and breeches like I often do.  You'll hate your life.  Rain coats with the hood and rain pants up are the best suggestion for keeping the hair off your body, but I usually clip on impulse and pay for the results later.

A horse - Good luck with convincing him to come inside.

 How to body clip:

1.  Set up your space.   Get out all of your tools and set everything up.  Put on your armor.  It takes 1.5 to 2 hours to clip a horse.  If you're clipping in an aisle, try to pick part of the day when traffic is minimal.  It can take forever if you're always stopping to let people by or you have to keep turning your clippers off to answer questions from confused little girls.  What are you doing to poor Theo?!

2.  Groom the horse well.  I prefer to wash the horse the day before since the dirt and oil in a horse's coat dulls the blades and results in a rougher looking finished product, but when it's cold out, a good curry and brush will do the job.  He needs to be completely dry or you'll have a very uneven clip.

3.  Chalk the lines of the clip.  This is important because uneven lines are pretty glaring once you're done.  I've used sidewalk chalk, but artist chalk is nice, too.  If you're doing a hunter clip, put on your favorite saddle pad and draw around the outside.  Don't forget to chalk the face, using your bridle for the line.  Double check the lines on the back legs, it's terrible when a horse's garters are uneven.

4.  Introduce the horse to the clippers.  Body clippers are usually loud, so even a horse that's used to clipping might need to be introduced.  Theo is a dork about clippers, so I have to introduce them every time.  I turn them on, but leave them on the rubber matting and give him a cookie.  Then I pick them up, walk over, and give him a cookie with the clippers at arm's reach.  He gets to inspect the clippers, then he gets another cookie.  After all of this, I'll touch his shoulder with the end so he can get used to the way they vibrate.  He usually jumps a bit, but by that point he's mostly looking for cookies .  He gets one more cookie, then I can finally start clipping him.  He clips ground tied for safety in case something startles him.

5.  With the body clippers, carve out the big swathes of hair to remove.  For a trace clip, that's the bottom of the neck, the shoulders, the belly, and the hip area.  Go against the growth of the hair.  The hair direction changes all over the place, so follow the hair and not the lines you drew.  You'll go back in and neaten it up with the little clippers.  The skin needs to be taut in order to avoid pinching or cutting your horse, use your free hand to keep skin tight and smooth when needed.  Keep an eye on the temp of the clippers, they can get burning hot fast.  Spray them with coolant and make sure the air intake stays clear of hair.  You'll have some lines no matter how careful you are, you can even them out by going over them at a 45 degree angle.  You'll get clip lines no matter what, but a clean horse, sharp blades, and touching them up will get the worst of it.

After step 5.

Note the slightly jagged lines and the shaggy spots on the belly and face.  Close up shot, pretending the old clip is the chalk lines.

That's about how close I get to the lines with the big clippers.

6.  Do the trim work with the smaller clippers.  This is usually between the front legs, between the hind legs, the area around the tail, the face, and the ears.  If you have someone to help, having them pull a front leg forward makes it much easier to trim the hair over the wrinkles in the armpit.  It's very easy to pinch a horse in this area, go slow.  On particularly hairy horses (*cough*Theo*cough*) I do clip the face up to the line of the bridle.  You typically don't with a trace clip, but Theo's head is big enough without the added padding.  Even if I don't clip the whole face, I always clip the underside between the jowls.  I trim the tufts of the ears but don't clean clip them since they need the warmth and they'd look weird clean shaven unless I'm doing the whole face (only with a full body clip). 

Shots of the face and tail area after going over them with the small clippers.  Black bay is a pain for photos, but you should be able to see the line down his face, his still fuzzy ears, and the even garters at the tops of his back legs (at least when he's standing square).

Because I keep Theo's tail trimmed, I did that today, too.  Makes his butt look bigger.

7.  Even out your lines from the body clippers.  It's hard to do detailed work with the heavy beasts.  If your horse is really hairy, you'll have trouble making your lines even due to the hair hanging down from the unclipped parts.  Flip your clippers over to run along the line and make it straight.  This gives it a bit of a tapered look and keeps the woolly mammoth impression to a minimum.

8.  Give your horse a good brushing and another cookie for being so patient!

Can you believe all of that is from one month?  Ridiculous.


Tricks to remember:

• Keep a close eye on the heat of your clippers.  I can't even count the number of times I've seen people struggling to hold their clippers because they've gotten so hot, but they keep clipping.  Guess what, their horses don't clip well.  Because clipping is painful with blades that hot.  If they're uncomfortable to hold, they're probably painful for your horse and you need to take a break.  Keep the blades lubricated and check the air intake for hair if they're heating up quickly.
• Lighting is key.  If you can clip outside on a sunny day, do it.  
• Better to clip multiple times then to wait.  Theo will probably get clipped three times this fall/winter (September, October, November).  That keeps him comfy even though more hair is coming in.  He doesn't shed well, so he'll probably get clipped again in April with a full body clip.
• I firmly believe any horse can learn to be clipped while ground tied.  It just takes forever for some horses.  Don't wait until fall to introduce the clippers.  Make it a ho hum every day sort of thing.  Turn on the clippers, run the end over the body, give them a cookie, put them away every day for a month.  If that's too much, start with just turning the clippers on and have them running in the background while you groom.  They'll start enjoying the sound of the clippers if it means a cookie and nothing else.  It takes dedication and time.
• Clip at least a week before your show so your horse's hair has time to settle down and so you can touch up little spots you missed.  All horses look a bit like shorn sheep right after a clip.  Some shine products can help with the dull effect from the cut hair, just avoid the saddle area.
• Keep spare blades on hand for the times when your blades start to quit but you're only half way through the horse.  It also lets you rotate which ones you send off to be sharpened so you always have some on hand.

Happy clipping!

How to

Something came up at the barn last night that had me thinking.  Someone said I was like a walking horse encyclopedia.  If they had any horsemanship questions, they knew they could ask me and I'd have an answer.  Of course I have to be careful since I'm still learning the quirks of the new barn, but in general, how to handle a cut is pretty universal.  How to pull a mane, braid, clip, blanket, wrap legs, and a hundred other little things are just sitting in my head, waiting for an excuse to come out.

On the flip side, ask ten riders how they get a horse ready to show and you'll get eleven answers.  Opinions vary wildly and people can be very devoted to their side of an argument like what side of a horse's neck you should have the mane trained to stay on.  I say right, Trainer A says left, and we have just agreed to disagree.  What I do will be different than what a lot of other people do.

Most blogs have how to articles or theoretical discussions.  I've never done that, since I never felt like I had anything specific to add.  But now I'm starting to think that there is some knowledge rattling around in my skull worth adding to the cumulative knowledge treasure trove known as the internet.  Your mileage may vary with my advice, of course, but over the past three decades I've done a lot of horsey stuff.  I even spent some time at a western pleasure barn, just for the experience. 

So what do people think, is there room for yet another blog with some how to articles scattered in amongst the tales of mi papi and our struggles to be a real, honest to goodness, grown up dressage team?  I'm thinking horsemanship and turn out primarily, since that's the area where I seem to actually know stuff people want to know.  Don't ask me about dressage theory, you'll get a bunch of random words and sketches and 'I have no idea why' comments.  Jumping?  Completely muscle memory and repetition, I struggle to describe what I'm doing in words after this long.  Makes Trainer A crazy when I devolve into random gestures and adjectives when she's trying to discuss biomechanics. 

But proper procedure after a hard cross country school?  That I have words for.

So what say you, intertubes?  Need more how to in your life?